🧗 La Sportiva Solution vs Five Ten Hiangle
Ondra's aggressive bouldering weapon against Garnbret's versatile all-rounder. Both are downturned performance shoes — but they're built for different walls.
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If you live on steep boulders and overhangs, the aggressive Solution is the weapon. If you want one do-everything performance shoe that's comfortable enough to wear all session, the Hiangle is the more versatile pick. Fit trumps everything — try both on if you can.
Both are high-performance, downturned shoes worn at the very top of the sport, so they show up in the same searches. But they solve different problems. The La Sportiva Solution is an aggressively downturned, steep-terrain and bouldering specialist; the Five Ten Hiangle is a more moderate, versatile shoe that's easier to wear all day and edges confidently.
Fit and foot shape matter more in climbing shoes than almost any other gear, so treat the character below as where to start — then try both on if you can.
Head-to-head
| La Sportiva Solution | Five Ten Hiangle Pro | |
|---|---|---|
| Downturn | Aggressive — built to pull on steep, overhanging rock | Moderate — downturned but more comfortable and versatile |
| Best terrain | Steep bouldering and overhangs | All-round — edging, vertical to slightly overhanging |
| Comfort | Performance-tight, not an all-day shoe | More wearable for longer sessions |
| Strength | Toe hooking and powerful pulling on steep terrain | Confident edging and everyday versatility |
| Climbed by | Adam Ondra | Janja Garnbret |
| Best for | Boulderers and steep-route climbers | Climbers who want one shoe for most walls |
Which one is for you?
- You mostly boulder or climb steep, overhanging terrain and want to pull hard with your toes.
- You want a max-performance downturned shoe and accept a tighter, less comfortable fit.
- Toe hooking and heel tension on steep problems are central to your climbing.
- You want one versatile shoe for everything from edging to moderate overhangs.
- You value comfort for longer sessions and all-day wear.
- You climb a lot of vertical and slabby terrain where precise edging matters most.
FAQ
Is the La Sportiva Solution good for beginners?
Not really. The Solution is an aggressively downturned performance shoe for steep terrain and isn't comfortable for long sessions. Beginners are better off in a flatter, more comfortable shoe and stepping up later.
What climbing shoe does Adam Ondra use?
Adam Ondra climbs in the La Sportiva Solution, an aggressive downturned shoe built for steep performance. See his full setup on our Adam Ondra page.
Solution or Hiangle for bouldering?
For steep, powerful bouldering the aggressive La Sportiva Solution has the edge. For a mix of bouldering and route climbing where versatility and comfort matter, the Five Ten Hiangle is the more flexible choice.
Still deciding? See the full buying guide or every pro's setup.